II: BARCELONA – GRANADA

Pasamos la primera etapa del viaje, dejamos atrás Suiza y Francia , y llegamos el 11 en la noche a Barcelona, ciudad de la perdición para los Chantos!!!!.

Salimos de Toulouse el martes 11 y después de un largo viaje aparcamos en Barcelona a la 1 am, con comité de recepción. De ahí nos esfumamos para juntarnos una semana después con la tremenda resaca!!

BarcelokaBueno la verdad es que teníamos que esperar las 2000 copias de discos que habíamos encargado. Disfrutamos esta semana visitando a la familia barcelonesa. No hicimos ningún concierto porque el único previsto se canceló, el dueño del local Bamboo Bar, una rata miserable pagó 10€ a la banda de unos amigos la semana anterior. En nuestro único intento de tocar en la calle, al conectar la batería, Juán quemó el 3er amplificador del verano. Le empezó una depresión terrible, que se contagió a toda la banda. Resultó que nos pasamos la semana «weveando».

Juanita
Juanita

El martes 18, después de buscar los discos y 2 chicas más: Belen y Yasmín, que estaban esperando la caravana en Barna, cargamos los autos a lo máximo del límite, partimos de Barcelona 13 personas mas Aurelio, direción sur, Andalucía y nuestra próxima etapa : Granada.

Tardamos 2 días en llegar, acampada y asado en la carretera cerca de Murcia el primer día.

A la mañana, sorpresa !! pinchamos otra vez la rueda del carrito, pero por suerte nos dimos cuenta en el mismo momento en que estabamos entrando en una gasolinera (Estación de servicio Cascales), cerca de Jumilla. Para cambiar otra vez la cámara de aire necesitabamos herramientas, pero nos quedaba otra opción…poner la rueda de cambio que compramos en Francia y para ponerla hacía falta agrandar los agujeros. Los hicimos en la gasolinera misma, con la ayuda de los dueños, Angeles y Juán José, que nos prestaron las herramientas para poder limar los agujeros. Un par de horas después, seguimos direción Granada.

Team McGeyver
Team McGeyver

Granada por fín!! Llegamos el jueves en la noche, aparcamos donde pudimos, y esperamos a Ricardo,un amigo argentino de Aymara, que vive ahí desde hace unos años, haciendo malabares y clown en la calle. Al mismo tiempo, Marco y Andres fueron a hablar con una okupa cerca del parking. Los del okupa estaban re paranóicos porque era el aniversario de la muerte de Franco y tenían miedo de que los fachas los ataquen. Les dejaron un disco y quedaron de hablar al día siguiente para tocar en un concierto que estaban organizando, a ver si nos podíamos sumar. Al final cuando volvieron, ni los dejaron entrar, excusa : «demasiados hippies», pero no pasa gra-nada. Ricardo nos enseñó un lugar para acampar en un terreno vacío

El Camping ¨Los Gitanos¨
El Camping ¨Los Gitanos¨

al lado del polideportivo, ducha caliente en la mañana y también unos vecinos viajeros re simpáticos. Montamos el chiringuito!!(profechonalchirigo) como verdaderos gitanos.

Tocamos en la calle en la Plaza Nueva,

La Plaza Nueva, Granada
La Plaza Nueva, Granada

buén ambiente, hay mucha movida en la plaza, los espectáculos se siguen, músicos, payasos y malabares. Se mezclan turistas que andan por ahí llendo a la Alhambra, artistas, punkies y viajeros, con la gente de la ciudad, como una especie de oasis en el medio de Granada y después de eso a probar las tapas.

Tocamos otra vez en Plaza Nueva y luego fuimos al descampado a pasar otra noche, cuando Gabriel, uno de los vecinos con furgoneta nos propuso ir a una terma en la montaña a 15 kms del centro…

y nos vamos pa la terma…!!!!

***

Die Reise nach Barcelona schien unendlich,alle konnten es kaum abwarten dem ersten und einzigen kleinen Bandurlaub in die Augen zu sehen: Party, Freunde, Wiedersehen,so trafen auch wieder Belen und Yasmin in den Bandkreis ein um mit uns Richtung Sonne zu fahren.

Plaza del Trippi, BCN
Plaza del Trippi, BCN

Nach ein bisschen Erholung ging das harte Hippieleben weiter…

Drei Tage non-stop Reise, nachts Zelten mit Lagerfeuer wie sich das für vernünftige Hippies gehört kamen wir irgendwann in Granada an, wo wir auf einem leerstehenden Gelände unser Superzigeunerdorf einweihten: eine riesige Plastikplane(auf dem Fusion-Festival recycelt) zwischen den beiden Autos gespannt,wodurch eine Art Aufenthaltsraum entsteht,mit den Individual-,Gruppen- und Pärchenzelten aussenherum, Lagerfeuer als Kochstelle, Dusche im nahestehenden Sportzentrum als Jogger verkleidet..

El Tribu
El Tribu

Natürlich haben wir in Granada die Tapas nicht ausgelassen, sind von Bar zu Bar geschlendert, viel Strassenmusik, Spass..Granada ist eine wunderschöne Stadt, doch es sollte noch schöner werden..

Ay, Ellas!
Ay, Ellas!

***


This morning I awoke with the blazing sun hitting my face! Once the blue skies and warmth registered in my half-asleep brain, I scrambled to zip open the tent door and went stumbling and sprawling out onto the ground, stood up, and began dancing and singing in my underwear in homage to the Sun King and the surrounding snowcapped mountains. My underwear is really quite nice—a unique handmade piece made by one of Jasmine’s friends. (Jasmine has brought a huge box to sell along the way. But let me back up….

La Jasmine
La Jasmine

Our morning in Toulouse (11/11) consisted of hangovers, 50 cent coffee from an internet café, el Niño kindly removing me from the Subaru’s driver seat and insisting that he drive instead of me because he knows the way (having lived in Toulouse and all), then him driving more than 100 km in the wrong direction, setting us back a couple of hours. Good thing he knew the way.

We arrived in Barcelona at about midnight, and as is typical when the band lands in that insane city, everybody dispersed in different directions—to friends’ houses, to the hills, to the beach, etc., for each to do their own thing with old friends and forget about the band for a bit. Carlos, Aurelio and I slept in the van in a teeny town called La Colonia Güell for the first few nights. There in the morning I witnessed the usefulness of the Chanto currency (i.e. paying for things with CDs) when we went to a bar, consumed three coffees with milk, one beer, and a plate of sardines, passed the bartender a CD after a brief explanation of who we are and what we’re doing, asked for the bill, and the bartender exclaimed that nooooo, how was she going to charge us, the CD was payment enough. Excellent.

Vic y Nuri en la Colonia Guell
Vic y Nuri en la Colonia Guell

The Chanto currency has been used from paying for coffees and beers to bribing border police. It also is extremely useful when lacking lodging options—people are often eager to take you home with them in exchange for a present and amusing conversation with such interesting houseguests. During a South American tour Los Chantos were pulled over in Buenos Aires, Argentina, because according to the police they were going too slow in the fast lane. Or maybe it was because the police thought they could make some quick cash, for surely a bunch of dirty hippies in a beat up van must have something illegal on them.

Pobre Perrito
Pobre Perrito

All the same, the conniving musicians soon had sweet talked the policemen and showered them with gifts—CDs, posters, postcards—and not only did they not pay any fines for the respective offenses committed, but the cops also offered to hook them up with their hashish-selling police friends. Sigh, thou art crooked, sweet Argentina. The best part about bribing cops with CDs is pointing out «La Guardia Urbana» to them, track number 10 on the CD «Pero Mañana», which is a song dedicated to the Barcelona police squad in recognition of their malicious abuse of power. This portrayal of dominance is best displayed when beating up street musicians for not cowering in their presence or when fining them and taking their instruments—and sometimes without the musicians having been playing in the first place.

Michael, victim of instrument theft by police
Michael, victim of instrument theft by police

It is ironic because local authorities, seduced by the income produced by tourism to the city, have the intention of keeping the city «clean» – but in an effort to do so, they are killing the romanticism, bohemian lifestyle, and creativity of the very street-performing culture that drew tourists to Barcelona in the first place.

Bittersweet Barcelona Nightlife
Bittersweet Barcelona Nightlife

After a five day hiatus in «Barna» we loaded up again, this time with Belen and her big bad new camera and Jasmine and her loads of handmade macramé, glass jewelry, and underwear to sell. The first haul took us through the back roads somewhere past Valencia, where we unexpectedly found an abandoned house and happily set up camp. In the morning we unexpectedly found orange trees alongside our new house—breakfast and vitamins for everybody! That same day we ran into problems when we busted the other tire of Rogelio’s trailer and ended up stranded at a gas station for multiple hours.

Shit...
Shit...

The positive side is that somehow the tire held out (again!) until it found an opportune moment to lose all of its air. Honestly we were only getting off the highway to fill up with gas. The other plus is that now both of the trailer’s tires are new and durable.

That night we again made it to the middle of nowhere but this time somewhere past Murcia, and in the dark we set up a campsite and a delicious asado out of very limited provisions.

Asadito!

We passed around bottles of cheap wine, shared pieces of chicken, pork, potatoes, sang a bit, laughed a lot, and in the early AM hours, got rained on. Winter was on the move again and chasing us southbound. The landscapes we passed that afternoon brought back memories of South America—first as the rains dissipated, silhouettes of the surrounding hills resembled icebergs floating in the flat blue expanse of shapeless clouds. Soon, multicolored cliff faces and gorges carved out by raging rivers long dried out and dotted with cave entrances took me back to northern Argentina. To the left, a field of solar panels soaking up the sun rays. To the right, silent but giant windmills lining the horizon.

Go green go. And finally, the impressive and snowcapped Sierra Nevada mountains, painted a frosty pink due to the setting sun, came into view. Irreal.

We finally arrived to Granada the following evening. We still didn’t know where the blazes we were going to sleep but all of us were so claustrophobic

LETMEOUTLETMEOUTLETMEOUTLETMEOUT
LETMEOUTLETMEOUTLETMEOUTLETMEOUT

from being crunched up in the cars that we left the cars at the train station and went on a tapas tour around town to stretch our legs and to sample some Alhambra beer. That’s when we discovered that you can live off of 1.60 €, which buys you a beer and a generous and variable plate of food called a tapa.

Tapas Tour!
Tapas Tour!

Late at night we returned to the cars and were led to a huge field where we set up a super gigantic campsite that would make any Bedouin jealous. We parked the two cars about five meters apart, spread a giant tarp on the floor and another over the cars to make a roof, and constructed another tent in the entrance to create a sort of foyer. After a killer dinner of lentils with vegetables, everybody agreed that Jasmine should be the official head chef for the hippies. Everybody slept like babies, and the following morning we were greeted by beautiful blue skies and the warmth of the sun—(that’s when I went jumping around in my underwear)—today we’d have an opportunity to explore Granada and to earn some money.

At the office
At the office

Off to work!


***


Nous avons passé la première étape du voyage avec succes, laissant derrière nous la Suisse et la France, direction «España», on arrive dans la nuit à Barcelone, ville de la perdition pour les Chantos!!!!

On est parti le mardi 11 novembre de Toulouse, et après un long voyage on debarque à Barcelona à une heure du matin avec un petit comité de récption!!

Joda Barcelonesa
Joda Barcelonesa

On ne se reverra qu’une semaine plus tard. En fait il faut qu’on attende les copies des disque qu’on a commendées, 2000 disques en tout. Nous profitons de cette semaine pour visiter la famille barcelonaise. Aucun concert à Barcelone, le seul prévu est annulé, le patron du local Bamboo Bar, un peu radin,avait payé 10e à un groupe la semaine passée, nos amis décident de faire boycoter le bar par tous les groupes de Barcelone, solidarité oblige… Au cours de notre unique tentative de jouer dans la rue, Juan casse son 3eme ampli de l’année juste au moment où il connectait la batterie. Une dépression terrible l’attaque, qui se repend à tout le groupe. Ce fut une semaine très productive!!!!¡¡¡¡

Mariatxi Jam Session
Mariatxi Jam Session

Le mardi 18, après avoir chargé les disques, et deux filles, Belen et Yasmin qui attendait le passage de la caravane, on charge les véhicules à la limite du possible, on part enfin de Barcelone, ville de la perdition pour les Chantos, avec un total de 13 personnes plus Aurelio, direction le sud, l’Andalousie, et notre prochaine étape Granada…

Il nous faudra 2 jours pour arriver, camping et barcecue sur la route près de Valence le premier jour.

Acamparemos aqui, dijo el jefe
Acamparemos aqui, dijo el jefe

Le lendemain !!surprise¡¡on crève de nouveau la roue de la remorque, mais par chance, on s’en rend compte au même moment où l’on entre dans une station service, près de Jumilla. Pour changer la chambre à air on a besoin d’outils, mais il nous reste une autre option…mettre la roue de secours qu’on avait achetée en France. Et pour pouvoir la mettre, il nous faut agrandir les trous!!Nous réalisons l’opération dans la station service, avec l’aide des gérants, qui nous prêtent les outils necessaire. Deux heures plus tard, on continue destination Granada.

Granada, enfin, on arrive le jeudi dans la nuit, on se gare là où on peut, attendant à Ricardo, un ami argentin de Aymara, artiste de rue qui habite à Granada depuis quelques années. En même temps, Marco et Andrès vont parler avec les occupants d’un squat proche du parking.
Les squatteurs sont paranoiaques parceque c’est l’anniversiare de la mort de Franco et ils ont peur qu’attaquent des groupes fascistes d’extrême droite. Ils laissent un disque et leur donnent rendez-vous le lendemain pour discuter, comme ils organisent un concert le samedi, on pourrait jouer aussi?Au final, quand on repasse, ils ne nous laissent même pas entrer, explication, «trop hippies»!!!¡¡¡mais bon c’est pas grave. Ricardo nous a monter un endroit pour camper sans problème, à côté du stade «polideportivo»,

Una ducha improvisada

douche chaude au petit matin et aussi des voisins voyageurs super sympas. On monte le campement comme de véritable «gitanos». On joue dans la rue a Granada, sur la Plaza Nueva, beaucoup d’ambiance sur la place, les spectacles de rue s’enchainent, musiciens, clowns, jongleurs. Les touristes, les artistes, les voyageurs et gens de passages présent sur la place se mélangent avec les habitants de la ville, cela donne une impression d’oasis au milieu de la ville.

Granada Centre

Sans oublier de tester les tapas, pour chaque boisson une portion conséquente d’amuse gueule, compris dans le prix!! Le samedi, c’est l’anniversaire d’Aymara, sa copine est venue de Mallorque lui rendre visite. On joue de nouveau à la Plaza Nueva, et on retourne au camping passer une autre nuit quand Gabriel,

Gabriel el Uruguayo
Gabriel el Uruguayo

un des voisins en fourgonette nous propose une expedition jusqu’aux termes de la montagne, à 15 km de la…..

c’est parti pour les termes

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