L’agua l’agua no paraba, la carretera no se arreglaba y llegamos a Tetouan tarde en la noche a un parking donde acampamos descaradamente con permiso del personal.

carping tetouan
Nuestro Chiringuito

Al otro día hicimos Mercado a la salida del parking y vendimos gafas a tletin dirham (30 DH, 3 euros) estuvo muy divertido y conocimos a Ryan que también vendía frente a nosotros y nos ayudó todo el día. Yazmín vivió su primera experiencia Hammam (baño árabe de mujeres) donde la bañaron minusiósamente e hizo nuevas amigas. Volvió vestida de marroquí con pañuelito y todo. Por la noche volvimos a nuestro “profechonalchiringo” y seguía l’agua l’agua.

Vendiendo gafas a tletin dirham en Tetouan

Al día siguiente Yazmín y Belén acompañadas del Perro fueron a vender gafas y llegó Ahmed,un viejo amigo marroquí que conocimos en Barcelona. Ryan contrató a Belén para vender en su puesto de ropa.

A media tarde llegó la policía y se llevó a Marco y Xelo a la comisaría. Estuvieron un buen rato hablando hasta que finalmente nos dieron 1 hora para abandonar Tetouan. (otra vez 1 hora!!) Nos despedimos de nuestros nuevos amigos y nos marchamos rápidamente junto a Ahmed.

Partimos a Azla, una playa cerca de Tetouan donde nos quedamos en el camping del mismo nombre, llovía y paraba de llover todo el tiempo. Nos quedamos dos días, Ahmed hizo mercado, cocinamos en el fuego y jugamos con los cachorros que había en la casa.

Seguimos camino a Qued Lao, un pueblo un poco más grande donde tocamos en un restaurant a cambio de comida. Dormimos en un camping.


De ahí nos fuimos rumbo a Ketama, empezamos a subir el Riff por la noche y nos encontramos con grandes dificultades ya que el camino era malísimo y las subidas muy peligrosas con precipicios y mucha pendiente. Tuvimos que bajarnos de la furgo y hacer maniobras para poder subir. Acampamos por ahí al lado de la ruta.  En la mañana seguimos hacia un pueblo en lo alto de las montañas, hicimos mercado y en la noche fuimos recibidos por la familia de Ahmed. Nos trataron muy bién, fumamos y comimos cordero, porque era la semana del cordero. Hacía frio y llovía, las montañas tenían nieve, parecía Suiza.


Pasamos por Fès y solo fuimos al Super supermercado, era todo carísimo, compramos 1 paquete de galletas para todos y nos fuimos a Meknes.

Se nos rompió el carrito así que tuvimos que pasar la noche en la ciudad por lo tanto hubo que ir a buscar un hostal a la 1 am, fue algo complicado porque la mayoría estaban cerrados y los demás nos cobraban muy caro. Finálmente encontramos.

Al otro día hicimos mercado, se arregló el carrito y nos fuimos. Ahmed se volvió para Tetouan y nosotros seguimos hacia a Mannismann beach en Mohammedia, donde tenemos varios amigos del viaje anterior.


Tetouan Public Parking
Tetouan Public Parking

Tetouan was our first authentic experience at incorporating ourselves to the daily habits and lifestyles of our fellow Morrocans, though always with trademark Chanto twists. We drove into a public parking lot in the center of town where Marco quickly made friendly chit-chat with the parking attendants, and after exchanging smiles and CDs for permission to set up a gypsy campsite in a corner of the lot (parking/carping), we started setting up our tents amisdt giant puddles and streams of neverending rainwater. During the following days we sorted through disintigrated and moldy cardboard boxes that had been tied to the roof of the Subaru, trying to salvage the goods that we had brought with us from Europe to sell in the Morrocan souqs (markets). In Tetouan we mostly sold batches of last season’s eyeglasses that Marco had acquired in Switzerland for free from generous/overstocked optometrists.

Belen modeling the goods
Belen modeling the goods

The going rate was 30 dirham (3 euros) but of course part of the game is the bartering, the edgy-yet-friendly negotiations. More than once I was reminded of Monty Python’s Life of Brian’s ridiculous haggling scenes, but as far as movies go I actually started seeing Star Wars scenes every which way I turned. Any superfan that finds themselves in Morocco can imagine George Lucas having visited, perhaps smoked something tasty, looked around him, and wrote `A New Hope’ right there and then. The chilaba clad merchants and traders, the hooded jedi tunics, what’s this about sand people, the similarity between the vast dryness of Tatouine and the Moroccan landscapes (alright Tatouine is a city in Tunisia, close enough) all were very impressive. It would have been very cool to have found the cantina (and Han Solo) but alas, stumbling across a bar that serves alcohol in Morocco is not a common occurance. Instead the typical social gathering point for men are cafes, which look exactly like a basic bar—tables, chairs, bar, bartender, television, cardgames—but instead of beer and cigarettes the men drink tea and smoke hashish, or in the north they smoke “kif“, a finely cut mixture of homegrown tobacco and marijuana leaf smoked through a very long and slender pipe with a tiny bowl at the end called a“sipsi“ or something of the sort.

Filling a homemade pipe with kif
Filling a homemade pipe with some homegrown

And what really drew my attention was how extremely common it was to find all the men attentively watching animal and nature documentaries in the cafes! In Spain or in the US a typical bar scene may include a rowdy half drunk crowd spilling beer and shouting at the sports match on TV; in Morocco the men are sitting peacefully smoking their pipes and learning about animals on the Discovery Channel. Go figure.

Our eyeglasses stand in the Tetouan market was so successful that it attracted the attention of local authorities, who passed by and took Marco and Xelo down to the station with them. From there an informative game of 20 questions ensued, which ended when the police told the boys that since their people cannot go and sell goods in our countries, we were also forbidden to sell goods in their countries. They then gave us exactly one hour to pack up all our belongings, our public campsite, and get the hell out of Tetouan. And if we did not comply or if we were caught again making market in their district, they would deport us to Spain—which struck me as extremely ironic, as being banished to Spain is probably a dream for many of the Moroccans that surrounded us.

Luckily we had met up with Ahmed, a dear friend from Barcelona who is originally from Tetouan, who guided us to a (real) campsite where we paid 60 dirham for all of us to take over their gorgeous terrain along the winding Mediterranean coastline with the snowcapped Rif Mountains to our backs.


Our days and evenings were spent jamming and singing around a fire (‘Nos Echaron de Tetouan’/’They Kicked Us Out of Tetouan’, Perro’s hit single), and Marco proved to us yet again with his superb cooking skills that he is ready to get married and will be a wonderful mother to his dozens of little Marcos. From here we continued along the coast, climbing up into the mountains, even reaching 2000 meters above sea level with the sea still in sight! We had the incredible fortune and pleasure of exploring the nooks and crannies of the Rif region, a privilege not bestowed upon many travelers or curious eyes. The sparse and isolated farms throughout the mountains and valleys are where the ingredients of kif are grown, and the region itself is the heart of hashish production—one of Morocco’s most successful industries.


Now that we were traveling with a Moroccan we ventured along the cliffs and slopes—at times being pursued by psychotic locals who would speed up, hang halfway out their car windows, flailing about a joint in their hand, half shouting and half cackling ‘Hashish, hashish!’ as they passed us time and time again, adamant about finding a wealthy European buyer for their harvest. We passed through miniscule towns that only seemed inhabited on their souq (market) day—which is how they named these populations, we were explained. For example, we passed through the quiet town of Wednesday Market and so forth. Eid-al-Adha, the Muslim Feast of Sacrifice, was spent with Ahmed’s relatives up in the snow dusted mountains—that’s right, snow and ice in Africa. Over the next few days we snaked our way south to Fez, and then headed west towards Marrakech. We had to make an emergency stop in Meknes though due to a busted axle on the trailer—whoops—so we stayed on a few days, made market, a bit of tourism, and once Marco had patched up the axle (we prayed for it to hold out until we could fix it for real), and continued along the road west towards Mohammedia.

Taking a stroll around Meknes
Taking a stroll around Meknes

151 opiniones en “IV: TETOUAN – MEKNES”

  1. It’s actually a cool and helpful piece of info. I am satisfied that you
    shared this helpful information with us. Please stay us informed
    like this. Thank you for sharing.

  2. Hey thегe! Τhіѕ post сould not
    ƅᥱ ᴡritten any better! Reading thіѕ post reminds
    mᥱ օf mmy ǥood οld гoom mate!
    Hе always ҝept talking about tһіѕ.
    ӏ will forward tɦіѕ ѡrite-ᥙρ tⲟ hіm.

    Fairly сertain Һе ԝill have а
    ɡood гead. Thank yoou fߋr sharing!

    Kunjungi site Saya demi dapatkan Info lebih lengkap tentang jasa backlink murah di indonesia .

  3. ‘ The service also reported 65 percent of the listeners on Spotify were under age 34,
    which means they were born after the group split up, and that Beatles music was added to more than 673,
    000 play lists in the first two days. VPNs sold in countries with unscrupulous judicial cooperation are popular:
    Russia and Argentina are prime suspects. code promo deezer‘s
    service will start being offered through France Telecom September 19th.

  4. Every weekend i used to go to see this site, as i wish for enjoyment, since this this web site conations
    actually good funny data too.

  5. Thanks for every other informative site. Where else may I get that type of info written in such an ideal method?
    I have a challenge that I am just now working on, and
    I have been on the look out for such information.

  6. Hoje, porém, vivemos uma governo popular, no qual elegemos presidente
    da república, governadores, senadores, deputados,
    vereadores e prefeitos, mas vivemos presos à ditadura dos
    bandidos, dentro a nossas próprias casas sem poder através de os pés na rua,
    recluso através de grades a ferro, e muitas pessoas
    vezes vítimas desde balas das guerras entre gangues ou entre gangues e a agente.

  7. That could be until eventually we all thumb through the entire picture book and see
    the actual memories that any of us previously had forfeited.
    Each country starts with just the ability to colonize cities
    in Europe. Subsequently, we’ve focused on high relief coins from some of our most popular silver series.

  8. Greate article. Keep writing such kind of information on your site.
    Im really impressed by your site.
    Hi there, You have performed an incredible job. I’ll definitely digg it and individually suggest to
    my friends. I am confident they’ll be benefited
    from this web site.

    My web-site GA real estate education (Evan)

  9. fantastic issues altogether, you just received a logo new reader.
    What would you recommend in regards to your submit that you just made some
    days ago? Any positive?

  10. Hi great website! Does running a blog like this take a lot of work?
    I’ve no expertise in programming but I had been hoping to start my own blog in the near future.

    Anyhow, if you have any recommendations or tips for new blog owners please share.

    I know this is off subject however I just wanted to ask.
    Many thanks!

  11. Hi, always i used to check weblog posts here in the early
    hours in the morning, since i like to gain knowledge of more and more.

  12. Ꮋі tһere! Ꭲɦіѕ іѕ mу first visit tо уⲟur blog!
    Ꮤе аге a grohp οf voluntwers and starting
    а nnew project iin ɑ community іn tɦᥱ same niche.
    Yօur blog provided սѕ useful іnformation tο wolrk οn. Ⲩоu
    have ɗоne ɑ extraordinary job!

    Αlso visit my web blog … I used this

  13. For fledgling or small businesses, mobile apps such as location-finding and business
    directory apps can give a great head start in customer engagement.
    As a consistent Skype user I have become familiarized to its failings the frozen webcam image, the ringing sound of the human voice when ecstatic
    through the air, and the time lag that afflicts some
    long-distance conversations. These English learning courses help
    you with proper pronunciations and thus helps you enhance your reading and writing skills.

  14. Magnificent site. Plenty of helpful information here. I am sending it to
    a few buddies ans also sharing in delicious. And of course, thank
    you in your sweat!

  15. You are so interesting! I do not believe I’ve read through a single thing like this before.

    So nice to discover another person with genuine thoughts on this subject.
    Seriously.. thank you for starting this up.
    This website is one thing that is needed on the internet,
    someone with a bit of originality!

  16. Good post. I learn something new and challenging on sites I stumbleupon every day.
    It will always be exciting to read articles from other writers and use something from their sites.

  17. They’re not doing it themselves, they’re going to the Russians to do the
    same thing. What will prevent soccer from establishing
    itself as a major force in the USA. Learn to be aware of your intuition, and you will get better
    over time.

  18. Kidney Disease Solution hello! , I enjoy your own crafting hence a good deal! promote we stay in touch a little more about this page with AOL? We involve a pro in this particular residence to settle my own difficulty. Maybe that is definitely people! Taking a look forward to view you.

  19. The lack of this publicity contributes directly to the amount
    of the population that watches other sports instead of
    soccer. You are the one that controls your fate and
    the winning numbers are your fate. A team with 2 losses might
    have lost both games right before the upcoming game, and
    be on a losing streak.

  20. Hi great blog! Does running a blog like this take a large amount of work?
    I’ve absolutely no understanding of computer programming however I
    was hoping to start my own blog in the near future. Anyway, if you have any suggestions or
    tips for new blog owners please share. I know this is off subject nevertheless I just wanted to
    ask. Thank you!

  21. Interesting read, I changed template on our blog and then the rankings plummeted
    IV: TETOUAN – MEKNES – The newest addition to my RSS feed!

  22. Desirable component of material. I simply came across your website along with accession cash to get that we purchase in fact relished bank account your site blogposts. Anyway I am following in your nourishes or even We satisfaction you receive right with admission to continually rapidly.. like it

  23. I’ll instantly grab a person’s feed once i can’t find your own electronic mail request website link or maybe e-newsletter support. Carry out you might have every? Generously make me aware to ensure that I could just register. Many thanks additional info.

  24. Was once disappointed too but I have done not exactly what
    to should. Give something for absolve to your visitors when they visit your own site and frequently you’ll be getting their contact information. This is
    because it is constructed from natural solutions that do not react while body.
    You will find penis enlargement pill can be made using natural ingredients.

  25. Right here is the perfect site for everyone who would like to
    understand this topic. You know so much its almost hard to
    argue with you (not that I actually would want to…HaHa).
    You definitely put a fresh spin on a topic that’s been written about for decades.
    Excellent stuff, just excellent!

  26. If you have now one, great; if you do not, then consider installing one,
    they can be ideal for space for storage and furthermore, as they may be flush resistant to the
    wall, it offers a clean appearance. Other times it’s actually a flaw or crack which can be fixed.

    This means that you can spend some time and spread
    the task out over months and years as opposed to looking to cram all this in and obtain it over with.

  27. It’s interesting to consider you have read through books, that others have not read and perhaps few other individuals have even heard of, what is significant, is the fact you have entered into them and come from that experience enriched because of it. Emerging as you become more emboldened by the experience of participating in a diverse perspective for a while, this is the authentic strength of a great book!

Deja un comentario

Tu dirección de correo electrónico no será publicada. Los campos obligatorios están marcados con *